Why a Dripping Tap Is Worth Fixing Today

That steady drip, drip, drip might sound harmless, but it adds up fast. A tap that drips once a second can waste more than 5,000 litres of water a year — enough to fill a large water butt several times over. If you are on a water meter, you are paying for every drop. Even on an unmetered supply, the waste is hard to justify when the fix often costs less than a fiver in parts.

There is also the wear and tear. Constant moisture can stain the sink, encourage limescale, and eventually corrode the tap body or worktop. A small job today can become a bigger, pricier repair if left alone. The good news is that most dripping taps are caused by a worn washer or cartridge, and replacing it is well within reach for a confident homeowner with basic tools.

Know Your Tap Type Before You Start

Before you buy any parts, work out what kind of tap you have. Traditional pillar taps usually turn through a full rotation or more. These use a rubber washer that presses down onto a metal seat. Over time the washer perishes or the seat becomes pitted, causing the drip.

Ceramic disc taps tend to be quarter-turn — a short twist from off to fully on. They use a ceramic cartridge rather than a rubber washer. Mixer taps, especially single-lever models, also use cartridges, sometimes two if they have separate hot and cold controls. Ceramic cartridges cannot usually be re-washered; you either clean and descale them or fit a replacement.

If you are unsure, turn off the water, remove the handle, and look inside. A rubber washer sitting on a brass jumper means traditional. A sealed plastic or ceramic cartridge means modern. Take a photo before you dismantle anything, and take the old part to a local DIY shop or plumber’s merchant to match it exactly.

Tools and Parts You Will Need

• Adjustable spanner or a spanner that fits the valve nut
• Flathead and crosshead screwdrivers
• Replacement washer, jumper, or ceramic cartridge
• PTFE tape and silicone plumber’s grease
• Small container, cloth, and torch
• White vinegar or a descaling solution for limescale
• Stopcock key or radiator key if your isolating valves are stiff

Turn off the water first. Most sinks have small isolating valves on the pipes below — turn them clockwise until they stop. If you do not have these, use the main stopcock. Open the tap fully to drain any remaining water, then put the plug in the basin or place a container underneath to catch drips and small parts.

Step-by-Step: Replacing a Traditional Washer

Start by prising off the hot or cold index cap on top of the handle. A small flathead screwdriver does this gently. Undo the screw underneath and pull the handle upwards. If it is stuck, a little gentle wiggling should free it — avoid forcing it, as you can crack the handle or damage the splines.

Next, unscrew the chrome shroud or collar by hand. You should now see the brass valve body. Use your spanner on the flats to undo the large headgear nut. Keep the valve steady and turn the nut anticlockwise. Inside you will find the jumper and the worn washer.

Prise off the old washer with a small screwdriver. Note which way up it sits. Fit the new washer, making sure it seats evenly. If the jumper is grooved or corroded, replace that too. Clean any limescale from the valve with vinegar and a cloth. A light smear of silicone grease on the new washer helps it seat and last longer.

Reassemble in reverse order. Do not overtighten the headgear nut — firm is enough. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks around the valve. Let the tap run for a few seconds, then close it. If the drip has stopped, job done. If it continues, the valve seat may be pitted and need reseating or replacing.

Ceramic and Mixer Taps: A Different Approach

For ceramic disc taps, turn off the water and remove the handle. The retaining screw is often hidden under a decorative cap. Once the handle is off, you will see a cartridge held by a retaining nut or clip. Undo it and pull the cartridge out, noting its orientation.

Soak the cartridge in descaling solution if it is stiff or limescale-covered. Rinse and refit, or replace it if the ceramic discs are cracked or worn. Mixer taps may have two cartridges — do one side at a time so you do not mix up hot and cold. Refit the handle, turn the water on gently, and test. A quarter-turn tap that still drips usually needs a new cartridge rather than a repair.

When to Stop and Call a Professional

Most washer replacements take twenty to thirty minutes, but some jobs are best left to a qualified plumber. Call one if the tap is seized solid, if the valve seat is badly damaged, or if you cannot isolate the water supply. Leaks from the base of the tap or from behind the wall are also signs of a deeper problem.

If you have tried a new washer and the drip persists, or if the tap is a specialist design, concealed, or part of a complicated shower system, professional help will save you time and prevent damage. There is no shame in knowing when to stop. For everything else, a little patience, the right washer, and a steady hand will keep your water bill down and your sink dry.